This project starts with squares. You can use any size square you want, depending on what size you want your hour-glass block to be. I started with 5" squares -a perfect project for Charm Packs - and ended up with a 3 1/2" (finished) block. So the finished hour-glass block will be about an inch and a half smaller than your original square.
This little table topper measures 24" x 24". I wanted it 7 blocks x 7 blocks. The number of pre-cut squares is the exact number of finished blocks you will have. That part is easy. I needed one charm-pack consisting of 40 different squares + 9 more 5" squares. I actually added a 50th square, because I wanted an even number of lights and darks, but if you're going super scrappy, even numbers don't matter. Does that make sense? Are you still with me?
I promise that the block itself is super simple.
Okay, let's start:
Pair-up the 5" squares, right sides together, and draw a diagonal line on the back side of one square. I used half lights and half darks, so I drew on the back of the light block.
When assembling these blocks, I've found things go a lot faster if you do the same step on all the blocks at once. For instance, mark all your backs at once. Sew your seams all at once, etc. If you are doing 100's of the same little block, you may want to break it up into groups of 50 or so, just so you feel like you're seeing progress and not totally bored, but on the whole, mass-repetition of the same step at once saves a lot of time.
Now sew a 1/4" away from
both sides of the drawn line.
I used lovely dark brown thread so you could see both seams.
Now using your rotary cutter and a ruler, cut on the drawn line.
Press open both blocks. Consistently press the seam toward the dark fabric.
(This will be important later.)
Now comes the fun part! Using a ruler and your rotary cutter, cut another diagonal line perpendicular to your seam.
You will end up with two pieces like this!
At this point I just throw all of these pieces into a pile to match-up after all the cutting is done.
Match-up different sets of triangles where lights and darks sit opposite of each other.
Or where it just makes you happy.
Then place them right sides together and sew with a 1/4" seam.
This is the part where the previous pressing makes a difference. If you've pressed them all towards the darker fabrics, then the seams should butt right next to each other, making all those triangle points meet up.
This part is purely optional!! Now, if you want to get really technical, here is a pressing method where four seams intersect, to make it not so bulky where all that fabric overlaps each other in the middle. Once again,
this is purely optional. So if this sounds confusing, don't stress about it.
Before you open up the block, pull the right side and left side of the folded blocks in opposite directions. This will loosen up the seam a little.
Now press the four intersecting seams in a rotating pattern. This will create a little mini four-patch on the back side of the block where all the seams meet. This just makes the block flatter and less bulky to quilt through later. Okay, we are done with that little trick.
Once you have pressed all your blocks from the front to make sure they lie flat, now is the time to square-up. I know some people think this is tedious and unnecessary. I used to be one of those people. But now I am a squaring-up convert. It makes the quilt come together so much easier and look SO much nicer in the long run.
I squared these blocks up to 4" exactly. A ruler with a diagonal line really helps in this case. You can line-up the diagonal line on your diagonal seam. Then put the middle measurement of the size you want to square it to on your center point. So, for example since we are squaring this block to 4" I centered the 2" mark on the center of my block and trimmed the sides. Then I rotated the ruler and trimmed the other two sides. If I was squaring-up a 6" block, I would place the 3" mark at the center of my block, etc.
And that is how you make a quick Hour-Glass block with no pre-cut triangles. Pretty nifty, huh? From there you can assemble them or do with them any thing you want! I'd love to see if you do something. Be sure and let me know! Also, PLEASE tell me if something needs clarification in this tutorial. I'm so happy to do it.
And now, we are off to celebrate Pioneer Day today - our state holiday here in Utah. It commemorates the first Mormon pioneer settlers arriving in a barren wasteland. People celebrate with parades, 10K's, rodeos, BBQ's, and fireworks. Our family is going with friends to some nearby mountain lakes to relax for the day and get out of the heat. Yee-haw! We should celebrate by having to walk barefoot over the sagebrush in ankle-length skirts, just to make us more grateful. Or spend the night in snake-infested dug-outs with no air conditioning. Or making quilts. [I should suggest this to my husband.] Pioneers did that too. I think that's why it's in my genes.
Last week we pulled out one of our thrifted sheets to make a little summer skirt for my 10-year-old.
This sheet isn't vintage, but I loved the print. And the price!
I've been going through my sheets and cut 4 more FQ bundles. I'm listing them in my shop. I have to announce here that mailing packages may get spotty for a couple of weeks, so if you see something you want to buy, please understand now (and forgive me later) that you might not get a Mr McFeely speedy delivery. If you buy this weekend, I will get them off by Monday. After that, just rest assured your beautiful sheets will be delivered by the next week. 
Our summer continues to be wild and crazy fun. In a fit of euphoria at the end of the last round of swimming lessons, I signed-up for a second session. This was a major first in the history of the Smart family. The weather and the pool have been awesome. It has also been fun to see the kids progress. And get some good exercise. And get a little cranky because they're tired and because bedtimes have been later, but getting-ups have been just as early. Unfortunately, I'm not getting the exercise I need, just the lack-of-sleep/cranky part.
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