I've been playing catch up on my the last few quilt blocks from the 2025 Riley Blake Quilt Block Challenge. Some of these blocks are intricate - which makes them great skill-builder blocks. As I was piecing these blocks I thought of some tips and tools to share that help with accuracy as you piece any complex quilt blocks. You may be using some of these tips and tools already, but maybe there's one or two that are new to you and worth a try!
Want a printable PDF version of this list. You can request one by email at the end of this post!
7 Tips and Tools For Accurate Quilt Block Piecing
The first steps to accurate piecing requires accurate cutting! These next 2 steps will help with that process.
1. Press and Starch Your Fabric
If you're going to be cutting a bunch of small pieces of fabric for intricate piecing, I highly recommend you press your fabric first to get out all of the wrinkles. This will help with improved accuracy as cut your pieces.
I personally don't recommend using steam to press your fabric before cutting small pieces as steam can cause the fabric to stretch and you can end up with distorted shapes.
On top of that, using a little bit of starch will stiffen the fabric, minimizing movement or shifting when cutting as well as reduce stretch, particularly along bias edges, making precise cutting much easier and more consistent.
Starch also helps with precision cutting as the fabric lies flatter ensuring more accurate alignment with your ruler or template and reduces the risk of distorted shapes.
You only need a light spritz. There are lots of different spray starch options including lots of different scents. I personally like Best Press and Magic Quilting that I can refill by buying replacements by the gallon in bulk.
I also like to have my iron at the highest heat setting so that it's nice and hot. (Just be careful. 😉)
2. Use a Cutting Mat with Contrasting Color
The majority of the time I am using my white cutting mat. (I use this one in particular because it works better for photography.) But when I'm cutting white/light fabrics, I pull out a dark cutting mat so I can see the contrasting light fabric better - thus helping with accurate cutting.
In addition, if you are cutting small pieces, use a 45 mm rotary or smaller. This will also help with accuracy. And if it's been a while since you've changed your blade, do that too!
3. Keep your pieces organized using a Design Board
Here's a handy tool to keep your pieces organized - use a felt or flannel covered board that the fabric can stick to like a mini design wall. You can buy ready made design boards or make your own tutorials here and here (video). These are one of my most-used tools in my sewing room.
4. Use a Scant ¼" seam allowance
When piecing - especially complex quilt blocks - I recommend using a scant ¼" quilt block. It's really easy to do by just moving your needle to the right a couple of notches. I've written a whole post on scant ¼" seam allowances with more details and visual explanations.
When I first pieced this block, it ended up a full ⅜" too small! I checked my seams, where I pieced the 3 rows together and sure enough, my seams were too wide!
I had my needle set at center for sewing all of the diagonal sew and flip corners, but forgot to move the needle back to a scant ¼" width for piecing the units together. I unpicked my blocks, used a scant ¼" seam allowance for those final assembly seams and the block came out the right size!
5. Chain-piecing + "Leaders and Enders"
I love chain-piecing. It's a great time saver and I tend to just plow big blocks or cuts of fabric through quickly. But if you're working with small pieces, take a little extra time and go slow. It's easy for those smaller pieces and seams to get distorted when you rush.
Another tip that helps with chain-piecing is starting the chain of fabric using a scrap of fabric called a "leader". Using Leaders when chain-piecing quilt blocks helps maintain consistent seam allowances from the first stitch to the last by eliminating uneven thread tension at the start and finish.
They also prevent fabric edges from being pulled into the feed dogs or needle plate, reducing distortion and maintaining crisp, accurate piecing.
The Crafty Quilter has a great article about Leaders and Enders if you want more information about how they help.
6. Notions for accurate piecing - Stiletto and Fork Pins
A stiletto tool allows precise control by securely guiding small or intricate fabric pieces close to the sewing needle without risking your fingers! It prevents fabric shifting, helps match seams accurately, and results in cleaner, more precise piecing.
For example, use it to hold down seam allowances so they don't get caught by the foot and bunched up under the needle.
Using double-pronged "fork pins" will also hold down opposing seams and match those block points more precisely.
7. Pressing Tips and Tools
When I go to press my seams the first thing I do is "set the seam". This means pressing directly on the seam while the fabric pieces are still right sides together.
"Setting the seam" with an iron sinks the stitches into the fabric, flattening the thread and reducing bulk, so your blocks line up more precisely.
Then when I open up the pieces, I like to press from the front of the fabric. I use the front tip of the iron to open up the fabric and gently press right into the seam to get the fabric nice and flat and make sure there is no overlap. I love the pointed tip and the heat from my mini Oliso craft iron for gently getting into those seams.
Press by lifting and placing your iron, rather than sliding it. This will help maintain precise shapes and avoid stretching bias edges and other shape distortion.
I usually press my seams closed toward the darker fabric unless its a super intricate block where side-pressed seams would create too much bulk. I those cases I press my seams open from the back. More on that below.
Tools for Pressing Accuracy: a Wool Mat and Tailor's Clapper
I am a HUGE fan of using a wool pressing mat for all of my pressing. Here's why they help: a wool pressing mat reflects heat so seams get flatter and crisper by heating the fabric from both sides at once. The slightly fuzzy surface also gently grips your fabric, keeping pieces from slipping around when you're pressing, preventing stretching or distortion.
I've my my wool pressing mat for years. If you look close at you will see that it's been used, but is still holding up great. I just keep it right on top of my pressing table for easy access while I sew. It's also double sided so after a few years of some possible wear or scorching, just flip it over for a fresh new side!
Another great tool for accurate block making is a wooden tailor's clapper applied right after pressing. The clapper traps heat and moisture, flattening your seams extra tight as they cool, so they stay crisp and accurate. It helps prevent bulky spots, making your quilt blocks lay smoother and seams fit together better. Pair it with a wool mat, and you'll have extra crisp, flat quilt blocks.
If you want a great 2-in-1 tool, check out this combination wool presser bar + clapper that I recently purchased. It has been so handy - especially if you prefer to press your seams open.
Place your seam wrong side up directly on top of the wool covered rounded edge and gently guide the tip of your iron along the seam. The rounded edge causes the fabric to drape down the sides and you get a well-pressed, open seam with out burning your fingers!
Then use the flat wooden side to set the heat and flatten the fabric for a crisp finish. Check your local quilt shop for the Gypsy Quilter wool presser bar/clapper. If you can't find it locally, it is available from the Fat Quarter Shop or Amazon.
If you already have a tailor's clapper, but are interested in a presser bar, you can find a separate wool presser bar here.
I hope these tips and tools help! The tips you can easily start adding right away. However, don't feel like you need to buy every tool all at once. That said, these are a few constantly useful tools that I would put on your list to acquire gradually over time (Mother's Day, Christmases, etc.) Each of them are tools that I use every day, and are definitely worth the investment!
Want a 1 page printable list of these steps? Enter your email BELOW:
Here's a look at my quilt blocks so far in the 2025 Riley Blake Quilt Block Challenge.
You can read more about the RBD Challenge itself, where to access the free quilt block patterns, and the fabrics I'm using in this post.
Post UPDATE:
Here's my finished 2025 RBD Sampler Quilt. Read all of the Finishing Details HERE.
Chris K. says
A little mistake: the link for Amazon also goes to Fat Quarter Shop. I'd buy that tool, but I already have a piece of oak for a clapper and a Strip Stick.
Amy says
Thanks so much for the heads up! I fixed the link. And yes, a Strip Stick is a great recommendation too!
Jean Rich says
Thank you SO much! I’m working on a quilt with 42 bird blocks and my first two barely made the correct size. I had stopped using scant 1/4” for a while but will definitely use going forward on this quilt. I LOVE the wooden block paddle! Recently discovered them. I also appreciate the tip to not use steam and using starch to press. It was all very helpful!
Carol says
Love these tips. Is there a printable version (I'll never remember all of it 🙂 )
Amy says
I was thinking of doing that and ran out of time before the newsletter went out. I'll work making a printable version this week and include the link in next week's newsletter!
Rhonda C says
Thank you so much! I want to print it also. These are excellent tips that I haven't seen anywhere else.
Anna Leininger says
That would be awesome.
Thank you
Johnson Janette says
Would love a pdf pattern. Great tutorial.
Mary seidman says
Great reminders. I'd love more info on starching. How much is too much? Too little? Should you starch yardage first and then cut? I know starch can make fabric shrink a bit, is there a rule of thumb?
Thanks Amy.
Diane McFarlin says
Thank you very much for sharing this. This is an area I want to improve.
I appreciate these extra steps!!
Diane
Michele Mishler says
Your list of hints and tips is so timely! I have just started on a quilt with "triangle in a square" blocks. Accuracy is everything with this quilt, and so many of your tips are helpful. I would like to add a tip for accurate cutting. It comes from my favorite quilt shop, Finally Together in Lebanon, OR. When using a cutting template, a small piece of shelf liner will keep it from slipping. They recommended the mesh type, available at Dollar Tree! It is working perfectly.
Gwyn says
I love my Oliso mini. Less wear and tear on my shoulder. I suppose the wool mat and a clapper are my next investment. I made 6.5 inch sampler blocks last year. The blocks with the smallest pieces could definitely have been improved by the use of a wool mat and clapper.
Did you see that Pat Sloan used your Portsmouth fabric for the back of her March Block a Day quilt. Sew cute and complimentary to the flimsy.
Amy says
I hadn't seen that Pat used that fabric. Aww, I love it. Thanks so much for the heads up!
Janice Rampton says
These are all wonderful tips/reminders. I love your fabric choices for the RB blocks and they are truly beautiful.
Amy says
Thank you!
Mea Cadwell says
Just a heads up, to protect your wool pressing mat from getting starch overspray or scorch marks on it, make a case out of pre-shrunk quilting cotton to cover it.
The case can be tossed in the wash or replaced at any time since it takes less than 30 minutes to make one. Use safety pins or velcro to keep the case tight around the mat.
I made cases for all my wool mats (I have 3 pressing stations) and found fabric that matched the decor in my sewing studio.
Amy says
Great ideas! Thank you!
Julie says
This was such a great refresher on how to be more accurate in my piecing. I love seeing your process and learning about some new tools like the clapper/pressing bar combo. Thanks for all of the information and for including the link to my leaders and enders blog post (that was a nice surprise)!
Janet Hovey says
I have a question about the scant 1/4 seam. Do you always use it for piecing? A lot of my blocks are on the small side, and I wonder if the seams should be a bit smaller. Do patterns generally say to use a scant seam allowance? Or should I assume I should use the scant seam?
PS I’m on the planning committee for our Peach Days event in September. I’m exited to see your trunk show and here all your tips and tricks!
Amy says
It's assumed because every machine, thread weight is different. It takes some practice you find the right adjustment for your machine. This post talks a lot more about guidance for scant 1/4" seam allowance: https://www.diaryofaquilter.com/quilting-tip-scant-14-inch/
Cathy Anderson says
i would like these patterns
Amy Smart says
Thanks for your interest, Cathy! I just sent the email to you. 🙂
Jan says
Thanks Amy, great tips, always enjoy your posts!
Kathy Van Hess says
Thank you for the tips!!
Amy Smart says
You're welcome. 🙂
Mea Cadwell says
1. Steaming a woven fabric can stretch OR shink it. Steam relaxes fibers, which can stretch fabric if pulled, but can also cause unwashed cotton to shrink slightly.
3. At a garage sale I found an artist's canvas (the kind used to paint portraits) for $0.75 USD. Covered it with cotton batting and stapled it to the bottom of the wooden frame. Now I have a portable design board that doesn't sag like cardboard ones can do. Even new artist canvases are inexpensive on places like Amazon so you can make all different sizes.
6. I like using a Sizzix weeding tweezers. The fine tips fit under presser feet and can go on either side of the sewing machine needle giving much more control than a stiletto. And it can be used for much more. The rounded handle can be used as a Hera marker and the fine tips mean they can also be used as a seam ripper and an awl.
7. Setting the seam doesn't mean the stitches are sinking into the fabric.
It means the heat is relaxing the fabric fibers and the stitches "settle" into the seam allowance.
It also means the stitches are flattening out, going from a wide U shape with straight sides to a wide U shape with sides that are bowed out.
The unset stitches keep the fabric layers apart. By flattening the stitch shape the two pieces of fabric to sit flush against one another.
- It's newtonian physics in action.
For my smaller wool mats, I cover them with a tight fitting cotton cover. That cover gets all the thread bits and starch on it. Remove it when it's dirty enough, wash and put it back on. And you can make it match your sewing area's decor. Takes about 30 minutes to make one.
Amy Smart says
SUPER HELPFUL TIPS! Thank you so much for sharing!
Dee Meyer says
Please send me the 7 tips for accurate piecing.
Amy Smart says
Hi! I just emailed it to you. Let me know if you don't receive it. Thanks for your interest! 🙂
Charlotte says
I use many of these tips already but love a refresher. In addition, I use a sewing machine foot that has a scant 1/4-inch guide on the right side. This has been a game changer for me. Also, I use several design boards (that I made) to organize and move pieces from the cutting table to the sewing table. Love them! I've not used the fork pins. It's always looked to me like they might be fiddley to use. I do use my regular pins in a similar fashion.