A Quilted Basketball Hoop Tutorial

As a quilter and a mom who has spent a lot of time in gyms and on bleachers, I'm always delighted when the worlds of sports and sewing collide in a fun, clever way. When Jessica from Jessica Steele Design sent over this quilted basketball hoop project, I knew it would be a hit with other quilter/sports fans. It's part mini quilt, part functional hoop, and completely adorable-perfect for a kids' room, game room, office, or even next to your sewing trash bin for "nothing-but-net" fabric scraps. I'm so excited to have Jessica here today to walk you through how to make your own quilted backboard and hoop, just in time for basketball season or fun a fun Christmas gift for a hoopster that you love.

Hey there! I'm Jessica, a quilting enthusiast, mother of two, and lifelong sports fan living in Iowa.  I am also the face behind Jessica Steele Design - home of athletically-inspired quilt designs for the modern quilter.  If you're looking for a modern sports-themed quilt pattern or project, come on over to www.jessicasteeledesign.com.

In this tutorial, I'll be sharing a DIY quilted basketball hoop pattern - just in time for basketball season! This project is the perfect addition to any bedroom, playroom, office or sewing room for a fun way to add some hoops to your day.  

The hoop is intended for light use with a fabric ball or to use over a wastebasket as a fun way to dispose of lightweight trash in your home, office or sewing room.  As much as you may want to dunk on this hoop (I know I would!), heavy or aggressive play is not recommended.

Let's get started!

How to Sew a Slam-Dunk Quilted Basketball Hoop

Materials Needed:

Note: The Fabric requirements are for making a backboard with a ribbon star block.  You may replace the ribbon star block with the block of your choice, just make sure it is 6½" x 6½" square. 

• FABRIC:
  • COLOR 1 (BACKBOARD BACKGROUND): 1 Fat Quarter (18" x 21")
  • COLOR 2 (BACKBOARD BORDERS): 1 Fat Quarter (18" x 21")
  • COLOR 3 (RIBBON STAR BACKGROUND): 1 Fat Eighth* (9" x 21") 
  • COLOR 4 (RIBBON STAR): 1 Fat Eighth* (9" x 21")
  • BACKING: (1) 24" x 31" rectangle (includes 4 ½"" overage for quilting) + (1) 2½" x 4" rectangle
  • BINDING: ¼ YARD cut into (3) 2 ½" WOF strips 

*If you are using your own block, you will only need (2) 1¼" x 6½" strips of background to match your block's background for Color 3 and you will not need Color 4.

• ADDITIONAL MATERIALS:
  • 20" x 27" of batting or foam stabilizer such as ByAnnie's Soft and Stable or Pellon Flex Foam
  • Marking tools such as a hera marker or disappearing ink pen (you will want something easily eraseable)
  • 8 in diameter wooden embroidery inner hoop (with a ⅜" wide rim)
  • Utility knife, coping saw, Japanese pull saw or saw of your choice (to make one cut to the inner embroidery hoop)
  • (7) 30" strips of ⅜" Chenille-It Blooming Bias or ⅜" fabric scraps
  • Permanent Fabric Glue such as Aleene's Fabric Fusion or Gorilla Waterproof Fabric Glue
  • (16) Medium 3M Command Picture Hanging Strips (8 sets of 2)

Before Starting

Before we start, here are some important notes and terms to be aware of as we work through the project:

- RST = Right Sides Together

- WST = Wrong Sides Together

- All seam allowances are ¼" unless otherwise noted. 

- Read all instructions before beginning.  

- Cut pieces in the order that they appear within the cutting list. 

Cutting

For the four colors of fabric used on the backboard, you will need to cut pieces as follows:

• COLOR 1 (BACKBOARD BACKGROUND): 1 Fat Quarter (18" x 21")
  • Cut:
    • (2) 6" x 13 ½" rectangles (1A)
    • (1) 4 ¼" x 9 ½" rectangle (1B)
    • (1) 2 ¼" x 9 ½" rectangle (1C)
• COLOR 2 (BACKBOARD BORDERS): 1 Fat Quarter (18" x 21")
  • Cut:
    • (2) 1 ½" x 20 ½" strips (2A)
    • (2) 1 ½" x 15 ½" strips (2B)
    • (4) 1 ¼" x 8" strips (2C)
• COLOR 3 (RIBBON STAR BACKGROUND): 1 Fat Eighth (9" x 21")
  • Cut:
    • (2) 1 ¼" x 6 ½" strips (3A) *
    • (6) 2 ½" squares (3B) **
    • (4) 2" squares (3C)**
• COLOR 4 (RIBBON STAR): 1 Fat Eighth (9" x 21")
  • Cut:
    • (6) 2 ½" squares (4A) (These squares can be one color or 6 shades of one color for a scrappy look) **

*If using your own block, these strips should match your block's background color.

**If using your own block, you do not need these cuts.

Ribbon Star Block Assembly

1. Mark the wrong side of each 4A square with a diagonal line from corner to corner. Place each 4A square, RST, on each 3B square. 

2. Sew ¼" away from the drawn line on both sides and cut on the drawn line to make (2) half square triangles (HSTs). Press open and trim to 2" square. Repeat to make (12) total HSTs. 

3. Arrange trimmed HSTs from step 2 and (4) 3C squares as shown  and sew, RST, into rows. Press each row in the direction of the arrows. 

4. Sew rows, RST, nesting seams. Press open. Block should measure 6 ½" square.

Quilted Hoop Backboard Assembly

1. Sew (2) 3A strips, RST, to the left and right side of the ribbon star block. Press toward the 3A strips. 

2. Sew (2) 2C strips, RST, to the top and bottom of the previous unit. Press toward the 2C strips.   

3. Sew remaining (2) 2C strips, RST, to the right and left of the previous unit. Press toward the 2C strips. 

4. Sew, RST, (1) 1B rectangle to the top and (1) 1C rectangle to the bottom of the previous unit. Press toward the 1B and 1C rectangles. 

5. Sew (2) 1A rectangles, RST, to the right and left of the previous unit. Press toward the 1A rectangles. 

6. Sew (2) 2A strips, RST, to the top and bottom of the previous unit. Press toward the 2A strips. 

7. Sew (2) 2B strips, RST, to the right and left of the previous unit. Press toward the 2B strips. The finished backboard should measure 15 ½" x 22 ½".  

8. Place finished backboard on top of batting/foam stabilizer and backing and quilt as desired.

*Note: it is suggested to stitch in the ditch around the Color 2 borders indicated by the arrows to help with placement in later steps. 

9. Add binding to the quilted backboard as you would attach to a quilt using your preferred method.  

10. Mark the center of the backboard by folding in half and finger pressing or marking with a disappearing ink pen. 

Mark 1 ¾" from the center line on each side on the bottom of the 2A strip below the ribbon star block. 

Mark ½" down from the previous mark.

Mark ½" lines as guides to sew ½" length buttonholes on each side of the center line.

Sew (2) ½" length vertical buttonholes.

*Note: It is a good idea to first test your buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric with the batting/foam stabilizer you plan to use.

Carefully, open the buttonholes (I prefer to open using a seam ripper) and set aside for step 15. 

To open with a seam ripper, place the sharp end of the seam ripper on the inside end of the buttonhole and bring it back up through the middle of the buttonhole.  Pull up on the seam ripper to cut the buttonhole open. Repeat on the other side if necessary. 

11. Fold WST the 2 ½" x 4" backing rectangle ½" from both 2 ½" ends and press.    

12.  Sew ¼" from each end to secure the folds.  

13. Fold the piece RST lengthwise and sew ¼" from the long edge. Press seam open.

14. Turn right side out and press with seam facing down to make a 1" x 3" sleeve.  

15. With the seam and backing RST, place the sleeve centered vertically and horizontally between the two buttonholes on the backing of the backboard. Sew ⅛" from the edge of the long sides of the sleeve only using a bobbin thread to match Color 1 fabric. Backstitch at each end. 

16. Place (2) Medium 3M Command Strips  (paper side down) on the outside edge of the buttonholes. Center them vertically within the Color 2 borders on the front of the backboard. The rounded tabs should point toward the bottom of the backboard. Sew around the perimeter of each strip using a bobbin thread to match Color 1 to secure.  

*Note: It is recommended to sew VERY slowly and keep the paper on the back of the 3M Command Strips to help prevent broken needles. If you want to use the adhesive backing to position the strips before sewing, you may consider trimming off only the ends of the paper backing. 

17. Place (1) Medium 3M Command Strip, paper side down, on top of the backboard sleeve, centered horizontally and overlapping approx. ⅛" of the sleeve. Sew only on the top and bottom edges, backstitching on each end. Use matching bobbin thread for Color 2 (on top stitch line) and Color 1 (on bottom stitch line) to blend with the front of the backboard.

Repeat with (1) Medium 3M Command Strip, this time on the bottom of the backboard sleeve. Be sure the bobbin thread matches Color 1.

18. Sew (4) additional Medium 3M Command Strips, (paper side down) on each corner of the backing. To eliminate the appearance of the seams on the front of the backboard, align the inside edges with the seam of the Color 2 outside border on the front and use a bobbin thread to match Color 2.  

Wooden Hoop Assembly

*Wear eye protection for Step 1*

1. Separate the embroidery hoop set and set aside the outer hoop. Using a utility knife or a saw of your choice (I'm using a coping saw), carefully cut through the inner embroidery hoop at any point in the circle. This will allow the hoop to insert into the buttonholes.  

*If using a utility knife, stabilize the hoop using clamps or strong tape on a cutting board and score it repeatedly in the same spot on at least 3 sides until you can bend it open. Lightly sand the ends if preferred.

2. Apply a generous layer of permanent fabric glue approx. 1" inside of each end of the backing sleeve. Be sure there is glue on all sides of the inside of the sleeve. 

Slide the ends of the embroidery hoop through the front of the backboard using the buttonholes and guide the ends into the sleeve approx. ¾". 

*Note: The embroidery hoop should just barely fit through the buttonholes in order to help keep it secure. It should be a tight fit. You may want to practice inserting the hoop into the buttonholes/sleeve before adding glue.

After inserted, add additional glue to the hoop where it exits the sleeve for extra strength if desired. 

*Note: If the glue seeps through the fabric sleeve it is okay and actually helpful to ensure a strong bond.  With the batting/foam stabilizer between the backing and the front of the hoop, it should not show on the front when dry.

3. With the backing side down and on a flat surface, place some weight on top of where the hoop is inserted to ensure the hoop stays level while the glue is curing and completely adheres to the inside of the sleeve. A wooden tailor's clapper is a great size and weight for this step. Be sure to follow the directions of your permanent fabric glue to determine how long it needs to cure. 

*Note: You may consider placing a piece of freezer paper (shiny side up) underneath the backing to prevent any glue transfer to your surface.

Mounting Instructions for Quilted Basketball Hoop

Once the glue on the sleeve has dried and the hoop is secure, mount the backboard to your desired location on a wall.

1. To mount your backboard and hoop to the wall, simply attach the remaining 3M Command Strips to the sewn strips on the back of the backboard.

2. Peel the paper off the added strips and position on the wall where desired. Be sure to press the strips in place according to the directions on the package.

Net Assembly

1. Once the backboard is mounted and secure, add (7) strips of Chenille-It or fabric scraps to the hoop using a simple overhand knot with the ends of the strips even below the hoop. Evenly space out the strips on the hoop once they are all tied on. [PHOTOS: 

2. Begin tying the strips together using a double-knot approx. 2 ½" below the hoop. To do this, tie the right side from Strip 1 to the left side from Strip 2. Continue around the perimeter of the hoop so that all strips are tied together.

3. Repeat 2 more times for a total of 3 levels of double knots. If desired, trim the bottom of the strips to be even. 

Now you're ready to hoop!

As I mentioned earlier, this hoop is intended for light use with a fabric ball or lightweight trash/scraps for use with your wastebasket. 

If you want to make your own fabric ball, you can download this template and follow the instructions on this blog post.

Want a printable version of this tutorial? I've got a free download of this pattern here.

I hope you enjoyed making your own personalized basketball hoop! 

Be sure to share yours on social media using the hashtag #hoopitquilt and tagging me @jessicasteeledesign, I'd love to see yours!

A huge thank you to Jessica for sharing such a playful, inventive twist on quilting with us. I hope this project has you looking at your fabric stash-and your sports fans-in a whole new way. I love when quilts show up in everyday moments of our lives, and this little hoop is such a fun reminder that sewing can be both beautiful and just plain fun.

For other handmade quilty-sports-related projects check out Jessica's fun sports-inspired modern quilt designs as well as this tutorial for a personalized quilted stadium seat cushion or this quilted reversible gameboard tutorial from Christine of Modern Charm Stitchery.