One of the highlights of my trip to France in 2022 was visiting the region of Normandy, northwest of Paris. I’d never been outside Paris and was so excited to visit more of the French countryside – especially this region. I have more to share about places we visited in Normandy- including Bayeuax, Honfleur, and Giverny – but I’ll save those for another day.
Since it’s the 4th of July weekend here in the United States, I want to share with you my visit to the D-Day landing beaches and the American Military Cemetery.
The beaches on the north coast of Normandy were the landing sites of the Allied countries’ military operations on what is called now called D-Day to reclaim France and eventually the rest of Europe from the Nazis. There are 5 different landing beaches along the coast of Normandy, each given a different code name by the Allies. (The beaches are also known by their original French names.)
I’m a history nerd/lover and I’ve read so much about World War 2. The sacrifices of a whole generation of people all over the world are humbling. I’ve always wanted to see the D-Day beaches, a site of SO MUCH sacrifice to liberate a captive continent and millions of suffering people.
We visited Omaha Beach, not far from the American Cemetery. The metal sculpture is called Les Braves, symbolizing Hope, Fraternity, and the Rise of Freedom. There are also flags representing each of the Allied Nations.
And of course the beach front was huge. We were only able to visit Omaha Beach. As I mentioned, there were 5 beaches involved in the D-Day landings and seeing just the one beach gave me even greater appreciate for the scope of the operation. The troops at Omaha Beach sustained the highest casualties.
The American Cemetery is a short drive from Omaha Beach, on the cliff looking out at the sea. The setting is so beautiful, and it’s immaculately cared for. We were lucky enough to visit on a beautiful clear, sunny day. The reverence was palpable and inspiring. Near the entrance there’s an excellent museum with lots more information about the invasion, the soldiers who took part and the response from the French people they liberated.
Most years, the Cemetery has over a million visitors a year. We saw multiple groups of French students. It’s very clear that this is a place that is cared for and reverenced by the people of Normandy.
This is one of the etched quotes at the memorial that moved me most. In case the photo is difficult to read, the text says, “If ever proof were needed that we fought for a cause and not for a conquest, it could be found in these cemeteries. Here was our only conquest: all we asked… was enough.. soil in which to bury our gallant dead.” – General Mark W. Clark.
These soldiers didn’t come to occupy or conquer – only to liberate and give France – and the rest of Europe – back to their people. The only territory asked for was a place to bury those who made the ultimate sacrifice. There are over 9,000 graves at the cemetery – most very well documented but still many soldiers who could not be identified at burial as was the case with this marker which reads: “Here Rests in Honored Glory, A Comrade In Arms Known But to God”. Also a large wall listing names of those whose remains were not recovered.
This is truly America at it’s best, sacrificing it’s greatest asset – its Youth and Future – to stop tyranny, fascism, white-supremacy, oppression, and cruelty. It all hit extra close to home as I now have an 18-year-old son – the same age as so many of these young American GI’s.
It still chokes me up to think about it. (The statue in the background is entitled “The Spirit of American Youth Rising From the Waves”. Just reading that title out loud made me weepy.)
This marker had temporary sand placed in the etched name to make it easier to read. The headstones face West – towards America. There are no birthdates on these markers – some say so that it wouldn’t be as tragically clear how young many of these GI’s were. There are markers with Stars of David for Jewish soldiers and other markers for Muslim soldiers.
The number of headstones is truly sobering. Freedom isn’t free.
As was the case with the whole trip – there was so much we didn’t get to or would have loved to see more of. One of the extra cool things – we were there only days before the D-Day celebrations, still strongly celebrated and commemorated in Normandy towns and villages every year. We could see a lot of the preparations – lots of Allied Flags, people dressed in 1940’s period clothing, vintage jeeps and planes. One vintage 1940’s era plane even flew over the cemetery while we were there. It was so moving.
While I was standing in line to pick up our rental car in Paris the day before, another American family got in line behind me. They asked where I was going and I said, “Normandy” and they replied, “We are too!” After a bit the mom took the 3 young kids to find a place to sit down so I asked the dad – who was wearing an official Army backpack – “What are you doing in Normandy?”
His reply caught me off guard.
“Jumping out of a plane.”
He then went on to explain the he was participating in the official D-Day commemorations – including reenactments – that the US Military and French government hold together every June 6. I got both chills and teary as he was talking. I am so thankful for those brave men in 1944. And I’m equally thankful for brave men and women today who still sacrifice a lot to protect the freedom we can so easily take for granted.
And I’m thankful for their families too! As I walked to our rental car, I passed the wife and kids. And I thought of my own husband, siblings and mother-in-law who were a military family, supporting my father-in-law during his 20+ years of service in the Army. And I turned around to go thank her too. The sacrifice of our military family members is just as real and it’s A LOT. Not getting to choose where you get to live/be stationed, moving frequently, being separated from your family member for long periods of time, worrying about their safety and well-being. Not to mention that same worry as the parent of an active military member!
What does all of this have to do with quilting? I’m so glad you asked. Quilts of Valor is one of my favorite quilting charities. It’s an organization created to “cover service members and veterans touched by war with comforting and healing Quilts.” You can ready all about Quilts of Valor here. And there are so many ways to contribute – whether it’s donating a quilt or one block. And it’s a great time of year to stock up on red, white and blue fabrics because they’re often on sale during July.
Already have too much red, white, and blue fabric? Consider donating it to your local Quilts of Valor chapter!
I know many of you are already familiar with Quilts of Valor. Thanks to all of you who sew for this awesome organization.
Photo from D-Day Landing: source
“Oh, beautiful for heroes proved
In liberating strife,
Who more than self their country loved,
And mercy more than life…”
We can take this for granted. Nor forget. What unites us is SO much more meaningful than what divides us.
Annemiek
I was there a couple of years ago and I found it very impressive.. It was raining very hard that day. Someone that stood in front of the memorial pulled out a trumpet and played the Last Post. Everyone wandering through the site, pulled back their hoods and put their umbrella s down. Still gives me the shivers.
Amy
Oh wow. What a special moment. Thank you for sharing!
Caroll
Beautiful post. We all need to remember this and the many lives lost for our freedom!
Jenni
Thank you for the reminder! ❤️
RaeLyn
Thank you, Amy. So well said.
Odile E KiNKADE
I now live in Tennessee (married a GI who was stationed at Evreux-Fauville Air base 1 hour outside of Paris way back in 1965 ). I am originally from Honfleur. I remember going to the beaches with my family for holidays.We always went to the “cemetaire American”and it was always very moving, I have not been home in 20 years but maybe this fall. I cannot wait what you have to say about Honfleur
Amy
Thank you so much for sharing your experience! Oh, I loved Honfleur. We only had a brief visit for part of an afternoon. I wished I could have stayed so much longer! I’ve decided I really want to go back to Normandy and spend a much longer visit. It really was special!
Joan
Thank you for this wonderful post.
Peggy
Hello Amy:
Thank you so much for posting these pictures of your visit to Normandy. It is yet another significant reminder of all those who lost their life and limb for freedom. As you stated, freedom is not free.
Penny Harrison
Thank you for sharing your pictures and comments! We have been to the Normandy beaches and memorials several times – while we were stationed in Brunssum, Netherlands – https://jfcbs.nato.int/ 27 years ago! My Dad (WW II) was stationed in Foggia, Italy flying in a B -17 and had dropped many bombs over the areas we were living in 51 years later. And the most humbling part of being stationed there were the times older people would stop us on the sidewalks and thank us for freeing them and their country and how precious that freedom is to them!
Amy
Wow. What amazing connections and experiences. Thank you for sharing!
Diane
GOD Bless your this 4th of July weekend. There is so much going on that is trying to take away the celebrations of the greatness of our wonderful country I LOVE your story. My husband is a veteran and I so appreciate ALL veterans. THANK YOU.
Amy
Thank YOU!
Cocoa Quilts
Thanks so much for sharing your visit to Normandy! It is on our bucket list of places to see!
Joan Sheppard
Thank you for this beautiful tribute. I can’t stop crying. My husband is buried in Abraham Lincoln Cemetery, Illinois. The quiet is earthshaking. The precision of the stones, perfectly set. Quilts of Valor – all colors, shapes, in perfect formation. Thank you.
Gloria
Thank you for sharing your trip to Normandy. If only people would remember the sacrifices all these men, women and families did for us to have freedom from those who try to take it away.
Pam
What a beautiful tribute to the heros of D-Day! It clearly came from your heart. I teared up as I read your post and I wish more people could see it. As I read, I was reminded of how scared and worried my friends and I were during the Viet Nam war. I shared it with my sons as your words are a reminder of what can so easily be lost in today’s world. Thank You
Marie Eddins
Thank you for a beautiful article today. It is only fitting that we think about and honor these brave men who brought freedom to France and ultimately the countries under the Nazi regime. How special to have met that American family and the Army Dad who was going to be part of the reenactments. We also were a military family while my husband served in the Air Force. It’s true, we had to follow where they stationed him with separations in between which can be tough at times. God Bless America!
SandyMay
I am an old lady (in my 80’s), and I still tear up at the sight of those many crosses on the hills of Normandy. There is nothing I can say that would adequately address the moving and impactful impression that photos and quotes from this battle make on me.
Lisa Sweet
Such a poignant post. I have the same feelings about 9/11. Although I’ve lived in New York, I have not been able to visit the site, nor have I visited the Normandy site. I just can’t put myself through the emotional toll.
Donna Murdock
Thank you for your beautiful post. My dad served in WWII as well as several uncles. My dad’s only sibling, my uncle Donald, went down on his sub in the Sea of Japan. My dad left for the war when my sister was only 6 weeks old. My mother would go for many weeks at a time not knowing where my father was. How hard that was for her!. This went on for three long years. My sister never did have a good relationship with my dad. This was a common thing for war babies whose fathers left right after their birth. We moved a lot while I was growing up in the Air Force. For me this was just a part of normal. I still stand when I hear the National Anthem because I always have and I always will. Freedom doesn’t expect much from me after what my uncle Donald had to pay. I don’t know if he merely drowned or he if suffered burns or if he was blown up. I just know he bravely gave his life for his country.
Amy
Oh wow. Thank you so much for your family’s sacrifices and for sharing your family’s experience. It’s so important for the rest of us to know what sacrifices are made – by all military families – on our behalf. And your example of your father and sister is heart wrenching. It’s true – the effects of the War were felt by the next generation. That was definitely the case for my Dad as well. Even though my Dad and his siblings were born after the war, their lives were directly impacted in difficult ways because of their parents’ war experiences.
Thank you again for that reminder.